NITRO_VEEDRIVER

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the one bottem left corner is the dauntless[8D]

DONS BOAT WORKS

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If you use the Google ruler set to feet it looks like this on is 66 feet.

azcaptain

My Cranberry Isle Lobster yacht (pix with blue/green hull) is powered by a 12 volt motor from my wife's disgarded cordless broom!!!

The other photo I saw, of the same boat in white, sold on Ebay is a really good rendition. It's amazing to me how many ways there are to take an ordinary kit to new heights!! I'm lookiing to find a kit I can convert to look like one of those really neat 1930's ChrisCraft "commuter yachts". I wish some company would build such akit. I've encouraged Dumas and Midwest without results so far. [>:]

WATER TIGHT

Hi-
Should Be Getting My Dauntless Monday--I Bought It Last Week-It Was
Started But Not Finished--Only Hull Built--I Will Have To Finish It And Add The Electrinics--
I Am Going Way Of Twin 700s 12 V---Will Be Talking To You As Soon As I Start Moving Along--
In The Meantime I Am Getting All Info From Your Posts---
Thanks

Pusar

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I hope to be setting up a Dauntless exclusive website soon due the huge influx of Dauntless intrest. Stay tuned...

Marty

NITRO_VEEDRIVER

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that sounds great Pusar. hope to see it under construction.[8D]

dauntlessfan

A dedicated Dauntless website is a great idea, Marty. Thanks for leading the charge on this. Let me know if you need any help compiling info, I think I already emailed you the scans that Sparkman & Stephens sent me, but let me know if I'm mistaken.

12skipper

Hi Shipwrights;
I am building my first "Dauntless" and I am getting great joy from this site. I really like the idea of a site for "Dauntless" builders. I am in the process of glassing the cabin sides now using two ounce E glass and West Systems epoxy. No fumes! I have two 700 BB turbo motors for it. I hope these will give her some get up and go. This is my first electric power boat so I am shooting in the dark. I extended the bow up to look like abandoned Dauntless in the Virgin Islands. I say this is my first "Dauntless" because I have another to build when this one is done. Hopefully I will learn from the first. The next one will be aircraft birch plywood. May be the one after that will be light ply with solid mahogany strip planking. I hope the new site is up and running soon. Happy New Year and happy building to all.
Chuck

WATER TIGHT

Hello-
Received My Hardware Package From Dumas For My Dauntless--Hardware # 2332-
I See The Shaft Size Is 3/16- I Have Two Motors "700s" And The Shafts On Them Are 1/8 th--
Where Can I Find The Right Connection To Set This Up?? Do I Have To Go With A Dogbone Deal??
Here Is A Picture Of My Dumas Thus Far--Before I Dress It Up i Would Like To Set Up my Electronics-
Oh Yes- I Did Cover The Pit---I Never Did Like That---So Sorry----LOL-
Thanks For Any Help- Can't Find How To Add A Pictrure--Next Time---

dauntlessfan

Wow, I'm pondering the exact same issue and was about to start a new thread for some help . I bought a pair of Graupner Speed 700BB's for my Dauntless that I am itching to try out -- but these new motors are still sitting on the shelf.

I too have the Dumas hardware kit - with the 3/16" shafts spinning the propellers. Like the pic below shows, right now they are attached to 1/8" motor shafts (common Mabuchi 55x type motors). So finding couplers was no problem.

But the 700's have 5mm shafts. I've looked everywhere I can think of on the web and can't find a simple brass coupler for a 5mm shaft that is compatible with my current setup.

I did find a "collet for electric motor" on eBay for a 5mm motor shaft, but the other end is for a 0.187 flex cable, commonly used in fast electric r/c boats.

Surely one of the members on this forum has solved this one already , right?

green-boat

I know that Graupner has different sized ends for their coupler, not sure if they go all the way to 5mm though.

NITRO_VEEDRIVER

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this is why i didnt go electric.... its all nitro for me.....[8D]

12skipper

Hi lennoxman;
Have you tried drilling out the motor shaft coupling with a #8 drill. That should get you very close to what you need. Maybe a little work with a narrow piece of crocus cloth wrapped around a round needle file if the fit is a little tight. Chuck

dauntlessfan

Thanks Chuck, your idea could be the ticket. I'll give that a try. I think I'll order a couple of Dumas 3/16" universal sockets ($3 each) from Tower and try to carefully bore them out.

I did try a similar approach many years ago, trying to hold the socket between my fingers and bore it out using a hand-held drill. No luck (as you probably figured [X(]).

But now I have a drill press so I can put the socket in a vice to hold it straight and still.

One quick question... I'm not sure what a #8 drill bit is? All the bits I have are in fractions of inches (1/4, 3/8... etc.).

Thanks again!

NITRO_VEEDRIVER

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here is what i am running...[8D]

12skipper

Hi again,
There are three sets of drill bits: Fraction, Letter, and Number. They are not duplicate sizes. You use a different size drill when tapping holes and you want the threads to have the quality you want. Fine threads or different percent of contact between bolt and the hole you are tapping. I will try to attach a Tap Drill Chart to this posting if unable to do this I will email it to you. When setting up your drill press, chuck up a drill bit that just fits your coupling and lower it into the coupling with the drill press turned off then clamp down your work piece. Remove the test bit and install your #8 bit and drill your aligned hole. I hope this will get you on the water sooner. I hope to post some photos of my project as soon as I figure out how to get them from the camera to the PC. These old dogs are hard to teach. Chuck

WATER TIGHT

HI PEOPLE--
THANKS FOR ALL SUGGESTIONS---- SOME REAL GOOD---
AS FAR AS I GO--I WILL JUST BUY TWO OTHER MOTORS WITH A SHAFT
COMPATIBLE WITH MY HARDWARE--
WILL SELL MINE AND BUY NEW- WILL LET YOU KNOW WHAT I END UP WITH-
THANK YOU AGAIN
GOOD LUCK---WATER TIGHT[sm=drowning.gif][sm=drowning.gif]

WATER TIGHT

Hi;
Another Idea---I Did This When I Built My Battleship USS Missouri--
Step Down Your Stuffing Tube With A Small Length Of Brass Tubbing- -This Will Make
Perfect For A 1/8th Shaft--
Than You Can Use the Universal--Or Whatever--Just Buy 2 --1/8th Threaded Prop Shafts
And R-L- Props you Like--And Your In---
I Will Go This Way--Will Let You Know How I Make out With This--Should Be NO-
Problem------Reason I Have To Do This -Is I Already Have The Dumas Stuffing Boxes
Sealed In Place--They Are For The 3/16- Shaft-..--I Bought The 700 Engines From e-Bay--
Good Luck---- PS You Can Work Around The Oiler--
Hope This Is Right-LOL--What Do u Think??

DONS BOAT WORKS

My Feedback: (3)

Like this?

watertoy1

Thought this was intresting
http://www.st.nmfs.gov/pls/webpls/cg...l_id_in=253410

This is the last known owners of Dauntless looks like

12skipper

Hi Boatwrights;
I hope you all had a good New Year celebration. Just so I don't have to reinvent the wheel can any of you tell me if you have experimented with different propellers on your Dauntless using electric drives. I have two 700 BB turbo motors. I have not ordered any props yet and could use some advice. Thank you! Chuck

dauntlessfan

Hi 12Skipper,

Here are a few setups I've tried on my Dauntless. Hopefully this will at least help if you are leaning toward Dumas brass props, eventhough there are obvious differences in motors based on what I can find on the web:

Mabuchi 555
Nominal Voltage: 24V
Voltage Range: 9-30v
No Load RPM: 8,500
No Load Current: 0.18 amp
Stall Current: 9.0 amp


Speed 700BB Turbo 12v
Nominal Voltage: 12v
Voltage Range:7-19v
No Load RPM: 11,600
No Load Current: 2.0 amp
Stall Current: 43.0 amp


Finding the right setup can be like a nasty algebra equation, and I wasn't very good at math in school [:@].

My next setup trials will be with the 700BB motors, now that this forum has helped me solve my coupler issues .

Good luck!

---------------------------------

# 1. PROPS: Dumas brass 1.75" 3-blade, counter-rotating
MOTORS: Mabuchi 555
VOLTAGE: 12
BATT: Two large gel cells
SPEED CONTROL: Micro-switches (full on - off - full reverse)
RESULT: For reference, this is the setup I was running for the picture attached to this post. Best bet if you'll be navigating around swimming kids at the lake, adequate for scale appearance and wake. Motors run cool. No water cooling needed. At least 2 full hours of run time.
DUCKS AT THE POND SAY: You may be able to sneak up on us since it's so quiet.


# 2. PROPS: Dumas brass 1.75" 3-blade, counter-rotating
MOTORS: Mabuchi 555
VOLTAGE: 14.4
BATT: Two 7.2 V
SPEED CONTROL: Novak/Traxxas EVX salvaged from r/c truck (i.e. not waterproof)
RESULT: About 10-20% faster than the 12v/gel cell setup above (guestimate). Much lighter, boat floats above waterline, turns on a dime. Motors run warm but don't overheat. Watercooling might help? 15-20 minute run time.
DUCKS AT THE POND SAY: It goes alot faster than we can swim, but we fly off before you can tag us.


# 3. PROPS: Dumas brass 2.0" 3-blade, counter-rotating
MOTORS: Mabuchi 555
VOLTAGE: 12
BATT: Two large gel cells
SPEED CONTROL: Micro-switches (full on - off - full reverse)
RESULT: About the same speed as setup #2, even with the weight of the gel batteries. Motors too hot to touch after about 15 minutes. Watercooling might help?
DUCKS AT THE POND SAY: That nasty melting motor smell tips us off before you get close.


# 4. PROPS: Dumas brass 2.0" 3-blade, counter-rotating
MOTORS: Mabuchi 555
VOLTAGE: 14.4
BATT: Two 7.2 V
SPEED CONTROL: Novak/Traxxas EVX salvaged from r/c truck (i.e. not waterproof)
RESULT: Never floated this setup. After #3 results, I'm afraid of melting the Mabuchi motors.
DUCKS AT THE POND SAY: You wuss!

12skipper

Hi Lennoxman;
Thanks for the motor and prop diameter info. Would you happen to know what pitch your props have? Those ducks are a critical flock ,aren't they. Chuck

dauntlessfan

Looks like the Tower Hobbies website says the pitch on the prop is 2.

12skipper

Hi Lennoxman;
I ordered some props from Tower. Thank you. Chuck